Chao Phraya River is the beating heart of Bangkok – Sunshine Coast Daily

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THE black-out drapes are drawn but the soft light coming through the silky second-tier curtains is beckoning me across the room.

It’s late. I’m jet-lagged. But I can’t help myself.

I free the panorama window of its material encumbrance to reveal the full glory of the setting.

In doing so, the fairyland of lights of this vibrant, cosmopolitan city are invited into my room on the 23rd floor, announcing: “You have arrived”.

This is Bangkok – one of my favourite capitals of the world. But not as I have ever seen it before.

Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel in Thonburi is one of many five-star hotels along the Chao Phraya River. But what sets it apart from most is the spectacular vistas of “the River of Kings” from every guest suite.

Tonight, I am Madonna. I am Kim Kardashian. I am Paris Hilton.

The blaze of gold atop Rama III Bridge, spilling like a waterfall into the ancient Chao Phraya River, is first to catch my eye to the right.

Immediately below me lies the poolside tropical greenery lit up like a Christmas tree at sister hotel Anantara Riverside Resort.

I recall that the last time I was a guest there and fell in love with this part of riverside Bangkok, Avani was still a construction site.

As my gaze follows the river to me left, the dazzling circle of the Asiatique Sky Ferris wheel is unmistakable, sending a beam of white light across the width of the river to the humble-looking Samray Church on my riverbank.

Like all great cities, Bangkok never sleeps.

The long boats seem to have moored for the night but although the time is now near midnight, river taxis, express ferries and the five-star hotel shuttle boats – all festooned in colourful party lights – are still transporting restaurant-goers, nightclub patrons and tourists from point to point.

It certainly beats trying to navigate Bangkok’s notorious traffic.

From the smallest towns to the largest cities, rivers of the world keep the rhythm of life.

And it’s always a powerful beat.

Over the next four days and nights, I simply can’t get enough of the Chao Phraya symphony of life.

Morning, noon and night brings an ever-changing and entertaining flow of movements.

From the 26th floor infinity pool’s uninterrupted views on my early morning swim and breakfast in Skyline with its floor-to-ceiling windows, I see the industrious city come to life with the first long barge convoys being pulled by tiny “tug boats”.

At Attitude Rooftop Bar and Restaurant, hours pass by over a burger and margarita lunch as the tourism hub hits its stride and the passing parade of river traffic darts here, there and everywhere.

Major hotels in this section of Chao Phraya provide free shuttle boats for guests to Sathorn Central Pier (which connects to the BTS Skytrain at Saphan Taksin for shopping and other attractions).

An afternoon ride on Anantara’s free shuttle boat brings me to the beating heart of the river city at water level.

The contrast of old traditional and shiny new modern is evident everywhere.

We pass bustling riverside restaurants, collections of fishing shanties that seem little more than tin roofs over open-plan rooms on stilts, plus a jaw-dropping array of hotel architecture that pushes the boundaries of style, elegance and engineering feats.

With a fresh breeze in my hair to combat the heat, I take in the traditional Thai multi-gabled buildings, fleets of moored tourist boats waiting for rush-hour, Buddhist temples, sprawling warehouses, and cranes reaching for the sky atop construction sites marking the next big thing along the waterfront.

And I spy entrances to the maze of canals known as khlongs, used for the irrigation of the region’s rice paddies, and where many of Bangkok’s citizens live simple, almost self-sufficient lives, growing a literal smorgasbord of vegetables, fruit and herbs in their own market gardens.

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Rama VIII Bridge. Shirley Sinclair


But dinner aboard the old-world charm of Manohra Cruises’s beautifully restored antique rice barge is where the real magic happens.

The elegant 120-year-old vessel is crafted in traditional style with a canopy and surrounds up to 70 diners in elegant teak wood.

The deep-hulled hardwood vessels were once the main form of transport on the river, especially in the mid-18th century when King Taksin encouraged trade with China and neighbouring countries.

We have barely taken our seats before we pass Asiatique the Riverfront, aglow with tourists and excited youths uncovering its carnival atmosphere provided by night markets, restaurants, cabaret shows and Muay Thai boxing.

The live commentary informs us of the upcoming attractions – among them, the French and Portugese embassies, the Bangkok Royal Seminary, the Holy Rosary Church built in 1786 by Portugese Catholics, and the Vichai Prasit Fort – an old Ayutthaya fortress built between 1685 and 1687 that now serves as the Royal Thai Navy headquarters.

We see Siriraj Hospital – the oldest in Bangkok – built by King Rama V in 1888 after one of his sons died from a mysterious illness, and the open-air restaurants and riverside promenade and community garden of Maharaj Pier next to the illuminated Grand Palace.

As a total of 24 points of interest are laid out before us, our table indulges in a set menu of gourmet Thai cuisine.

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On Manohra Cruises’ dinner cruise. Shirley Sinclair


It begins with make-your-own savoury betel leaves wrapped with dried shrimp, peanut, grated coconut, ginger, chili, lime and sweet coconut sauce; moves into a selection of appetisers including raw tuna salad with shallot, sawtooth coriander, kaffir lime leaf, chili and toasted rice powder served in zucchini; through shared family-style main courses such as stir-fried tiger prawn, long red chili, long green chili, white onion and Chinese celery in yellow curry with wok-fried seasonal vegetables; to a dessert of mango and sticky rice.

We glide beside the colourful spectacle of floating restaurants and party boats as we make our way to our destination: the Rama VIII Bridge – one of the world’s largest asymmetrical cable-stayed bridges, opened on May 7, 2002.

It represents a son’s love for his father, inaugurated on September 20 on the birthday of the late King Ananda Mahidol (Rama VIII).

On the return journey, we move in closer and linger longer at Wat Arun or “the Temple of Dawn” to absorb the majesty of the Cambodian-style tower or “prang” at 67m high.

The pyramid-like tower is a modern wonder – a beacon in the darkness, drawing all who pass closer to bathe in its brilliant glow.

Conceived by King Taksin in 1768 at the height of the Ayutthaya period, the temple also features a crowned roof porch.

The night has been filled with “pinch-myself” moments.

I’m no longer a rock star, reality TV celebrity or multi-millionaire heiress.

I am officially a queen on the “The River of Kings” (despite my pauper’s budget).

CHAO PHRAYA

The Chao Phraya is Thailand’s major river, at 372 km long, flowing through Bangkok into the Gulf of Thailand.

STAY

Avani Riverside Bangkok Hotel on Charoen Nakorn Rd, Thonburi, Bangkok.

Visit avanihotels.com

Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort, also on Charoennakorn Rd, Thonburi, Bangkok.

Visit https://www.anantara.com/en/riverside-bangkok

SHOP

Riverside Plaza Bangkok on Charoennakhon Rd, Thon Buri, Bangkok.

DO

Manohra Cruises, based at Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort, runs breakfast and dinner cruises.

Visit www.manohracruises.com

Asiatique The Riverfront shopping, shows and attractions including the Asiatique Sky (also known as Asiatique Big Wheel), which is Thailand’s tallest Ferris wheel at more than 60m, and with a diameter of 50m.

Visit www.asiatiquethailand.com

Thank You
https://www.sunshinecoastdaily.com.au/news/chao-phraya-river-is-the-beating-heart-of-bangkok/3663520/
 
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